Chapter One, the first ultra luxury watch by Maîtres du Temps

Launched globally last April in Geneva, Switzerland, Maîtres du Temps is a unique new haute horlogerie brand whose concept is to develop innovative, interesting and exclusive timepieces through collaborations of the world’s most accomplished independent master watchmakers. Headquartered in Geneva, Switzerland, the brand presented its first luxury watch, Chapter One, in April 2008 during a private salon held at the Geneva Hotel Beau Rivage.

Created by master watchmakers Christophe Claret, Peter Speake-Marin and Roger Dubuis, Chapter One is a world-class combination of complications featuring a tourbillon, mono-pusher chronograph, retrograde date, retrograde GMT and two prominent idiosyncratic rolling bars, a day of the week indication and a patented precise moon phase indication. Chapter One’s tonneau-shaped case is available in a series of 11 pieces each in red gold, white gold and titanium. Only made available through a selective retailer network, the first models are expected to arrive this fall and will retail for approximately US$ 400,000.00—making it one of the world’s most expensive first timepieces from a new brand.

Recently, European Luxury Blog had the pleasure of meeting Steven Holtzman, founder of Maîtres du Temps. Having realized his long-time dream by launching his own luxury watch brand, the American watch distributor of high-quality Swiss watches began his career in horology over twenty-five years ago. In launching Maîtres du Temps, he not only contributes to the existence of independent watchmaking by continuously promoting the real craftsmen behind creations, but he brings his visions to life in timepieces unprecedented in the history of horology. During our pleasant interview, Mr. Holtzman told us more about his unique brand and its first chronicle: Chapter One.

European Luxury Blog: Following a long involvement in the distribution of high-end Swiss watch brands as Roger Dubuis and Jean Dunand in North America with Helvetia Time Incorporated (HTI), you founded the watch brand Maîtres du Temps in Switzerland. Could you explain your motivation behind this?

Steven Holtzman: The motivation behind Maîtres du Temps was to be able to come up with a project where we could pay homage to the independent watchmaker. Our strength has always been in distribution and taking a watch brand to the market. But the idea behind Maîtres du Temps was to be able to create a watch and have an open slate. I know Mr. Roger Dubuis from working with him in the past. Additionally, I’ve known Mr. Peter Speake-Marin from various projects that he has done with other people, and I also have a professional relationship with Mr. Claret.The idea of bringing the three watchmakers together in a collaborative effort and having them help us get from the beginning to the middle was very proficient, and it was a great honor.

European Luxury Blog: Why did you choose to collaborate with the master watchmakers Christophe Claret, Roger Dubuis and Peter Speake-Marin?

Steven Holtzman: Every one of the three watchmakers has a particular skill. Mr. Claret has the capacity and ability to create a watch and come up with solutions. Mr. Dubuis’ traditional perspective is from the old school of Geneva watchmaking, and utilizing his traditional watchmaking experience meant we were able to blend different views. Mr. Speake-Marin’s ability to set up and manage the process, bringing us in contact with the right suppliers and helping us with the decisions, was a natural fit. That we were able to bring the three watchmakers together was like a dream for us.

European Luxury Blog: This year, the first watch titled Chapter One was presented. Could you tell more about this first watch by Maîtres du Temps?

Steven Holtzman: I have always been fascinated by the combination of rolling bars and clocks and the possibility of some day being able to incorporate rolling bars into a mechanical timepiece. The idea of Chapter One was first of all to tell a story, to begin to write our own history about our brand. Even more so, to be able to use cylinder rolling bars as a way to provide information, whether it was a month or day or a moon phase or a time zone, was my vision. We felt the rolling bars would be very fascinating if integrated into a mechanical movement. The way we actually came up with the concept for Chapter One was by trying to create a watch around the incorporated rolling bars.

European Luxury Blog: Could you explain the attraction the Tourbillon has for watchmakers? And why did Maîtres du Temps choose to again push the limits on what can be done with a Tourbillon movement?

Steven Holtzman: Christophe has always been fantastic with the tourbillon. The tourbillon and minute repeater has always been his forte. But the idea of taking a tourbillon and completely defining and redefining the way the light goes into it was an interesting process for us. We wanted to make the tourbillon the heart of the watch, beating in the center of the watch. It was important to make the tourbillon the one place where all three watchmakers came together. During the design, we made a mistake, and it seems to have been a brilliant mistake, as we ended up being able to observe the tourbillon from the side. We made a cut out, which resulted in the case having a big archway for light to be let into the tourbillon so it glows all the way through. It really draws your attention to the tourbillon, which is quite different. I think it is special but subtle.

European Luxury Blog: What do you think makes Chapter One so special?

Steven Holtzman: The number of components, the amount of handcraftsmanship and the speed at which the project was realized are quite exceptional for the traditional Swiss watchmaking industry. But ultimately, the ability to work with three master watchmakers, to be able to blend each others’ talents and to create something exceptional was a great satisfaction.

European Luxury Blog: In which price range is Chapter One positioned?

Steven Holtzman: We introduced Chapter One to the market for a suggested retail price of US$ 400,000.00 which I put into the higher categories of luxury watches. I would say that Chapter One is a combination of uber luxury and high horology.

European Luxury Blog: What do you think the Maîtres du Temps watch creation will mean for the watchmaking world?

Steven Holtzman: If we’re successful, the concept behind Maîtres du Temps would be to provide a template, a vehicle for the independent watchmaker to be seen and heard. Our goal in forming the various collaborations, creating the brand and naming the brand Maîtres du Temps, Masters of Time, was to be able to draw attention to the craftsmen and put the focus on them. We aim to be able to promote independent watchmaking, initiate collaboration, and support the perpetuation of watchmaking from generation to generation.

European Luxury Blog: How would you define the core values of Maîtres du Temps? And what is most unique about the brand?

Steven Holtzman: The core values are constantly being defined and redefined, but our aim is to work with independent watchmakers, to instill craftsmanship, bring masters into the product and offer outstanding service and distribution.

European Luxury Blog: How would you explain the brand slogan “Masters and Their Craft – A Lifelong Pursuit of Excellence”? And what does “pursuit of excellence” mean, according to you?

Steven Holtzman: That’s a big question; when I figure that out, I will let you know! Our pursuit of excellence is part of the process. My pursuit has been to respect the process, to stay on the path, to work my best and put everything into it that I’ve got. The journey, I think, is more important, the concept of constantly moving forward, of constantly improving, and constantly evolving, changing and growing.

European Luxury Blog: What are your objectives and expectations for the future of Maîtres du Temps?

Steven Holtzman: Our expectations are to provide a special product, something with a different perspective. To be able to use different ways of telling time that are not necessarily traditional but at the same time are able to maintain a somewhat classical image. We would like to bring another level to the spirit of working with the independents, to be able to form some great collaboration and to come up with some creative concepts that haven’t been expressed before in watches.

European Luxury Blog: Can you reveal already what we can expect from Maîtres du Temps the coming year?

Steven Holtzman: First we’re going to have some changes to Chapter One at the end of the year that will involve a similar concept but with a twist. We already committed for the next five projects, Chapters Two, Three, Four, Five and Six, that will involve some really outstanding watchmakers. Some you may be able to anticipate; others might quite surprise you. We want to be able to release a couple of projects every year, to be able to come up with something new, different and interesting in each project and to be able to continually allow the brand to evolve while containing some consistency with its DNA.

European Luxury Blog: Do you aspire to become somehow a referral or icon in independent watchmaking?

Steven Holtzman: I am not sure about being a referral but the idea of securing a place in the industry of independent watchmaking is exciting. For independent watchmakers, because of the nature of their work, it’s almost a bit paradoxical to talk about collaboration with someone who is independent. Respect for tradition, and creating a timepiece with the purpose of doing it well is the spirit of the independents, which I believe is also the future of the watch industry. To be around this is contagious, and for that I am grateful.

For more information about Maîtres du Temps or its founder Steven Holtzman, please visit: Maîtres du Temps

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