Since his début as Artistic Director for the French label Nina Ricci the Belgium born designer Olivier Theyskens has blown an whirlwind of designs into the fashion world; looking urban, modern, young and eminently wearable, infused with a fragile and poetic spirit. Nina Ricci, a house better known for its fragrances than its fashions, called in the young designer in November 2006 to take on the task of rebuilding the label. Since his first line debuted in March 2007 Theyskens has managed to reconcile the graceful delicacy of Nina Ricci with his romantic vision. His style, so different from other brands, is a fresh breeze through the fashion world. Inspired by 19th century romanticism Theyskens’ elegant creations elongate and tighten the silhouette, with a sombre dramatic touch.

Proclaimed as “one of the world’s greatest fashion designers” by Anna Wintour the frail looking Belgium designer started his career in fashion by attending the École Nationale Superieure des Arts Visuels de la Cambre in 1995 at the age of 18. After two years he dropped out and started his own label creating collections that were often referred to as Gothic extravaganzas. After closing his label due to financial cause Theyskens progressed creating stage costumes for the Theatre. In 2002, a time when many of the venerable Parisian fashion houses were undergoing renovation and revival, Rochas appointed the 26 year old Belgium as Artistic Director. Though he managed to create an entirely new Rochas silhouette, elegant and French influenced, with his first collection the fashion division of Rochas was discontinued in July 2006 after a strong demise of the brand. Since Theyskens joined Nina Ricci he has produced three collections for the label and seems to have found his balance, bringing his Belgium ethereal and rather dark look to the girlie label.

Olivier Theyskens Collections for Nini Ricci

1) Debut collection Ready to Wear Fall ‘07
For his first collection Theyskens focused on tear-drop shaped down-filled blouses, twisted sweater dresses, and diagonally zipped biker jackets that fell open in soft, petal-like folds. Showing a far more ethereal style, established by the feathers entwined into the models’ hair and the chartreuse fantasy gowns.

2) Resort 2008
Romantic and rebellious at once the collection comprised spirals pieced together with patchworks of fabric for an elegant effect. The colour-blocking theme extended into casual cocktail numbers and short T-shirt dresses.

3) Ready to Wear Spring ‘08
This collection was a reassertion of the Belgian identity of Theyskens, deciding to take the path of underground edginess rather than Parisian chic. The look is young and urban, including jodhpur jeans, patch worked tour T-shirts, hip baseball jackets, and gives a sense of working toward a new, layered assemblage of casual dressing.

Source: Style.com / Air France Madame
Images courtesy: Style Online / Happy News